
My ashes will be spread in Muizenberg. I’ve been surfing there since 1997. It’s a gentle wave. A great beginner’s spot. Everyday, surf lessons happen here from the 6 or so surf shops. Muizenberg is a happening place. They call it “Surfers Corner.”
To the West…

60 Kilometers of unspoiled beach.
To the East…

The beach runs into the mountains, creating a “Corner.”
When I discovered Muizenberg, it was rainy, cold, and in ruins. The Empire Theater was a crack house.

Today it looks like this!

It is bordered on the right with brand new condominiums. On the left by a restored boarding house, with restaurants on the ground floor.
There was a cafe, a bar and one Surf Shop on the Beachfront. Lifestyle Surf Shop. It’s still there. Same two guys running it.
On the other side of town a block from the beach on the Main Road is the Corner Surf Shop. One man owns it and has since purchased the whole block. He opened the Empire Cafe, a cool, bohemian restaurant/ cafe with a beach view. Love it there.

On a sunny Sunday or a good swell, the old surfers come out if the woodwork. 4x4s and VW Vans with boards on top. To me, it was just as I imagined Southern California as a kid. I honestly believe that I am a reincarnated surfer who grew up in maybe Malibu. How else could my fascination with surfing and the sea have gripped me since I was in single digits. How else?
The point here that I am dancing around is that most likely, I will never again stand up and ride waves on a surfboard. No, I will NEVER stop walking into the sea and riding waves. I’ll just be on a bodyboard.
I’m not going to try and get fit enough to ski. I’m not playing golf anymore. I may try and snowboard next winter. That one is still in my head calling me. I haven’t proven to myself that I can’t do that.
I am going to fight only a couple of battles. I’m going to do my very best to live as long and healthily as I can. I’m going to keep working on the few weaknesses that have slowed down my backpacking. I have to hike. It renews me physically, mentally, and Spiritually.
I’m finished working on the failing parts of my body in order to achieve some goal or be able to do some specific activity.
I want to feel good. I want to live as long and as well as I can.
I think that I am letting go of the younger me. I need to get back to delusional optimism. My formula for that is lots of AA Meetings and lots of moderate exercise.
Oh yes. I will keep cycling. Soon on a recumbent!
A.I.
