That’s my SA surf spot. If I lived here I would still be surfing regularly. There are good waves somewhere, everyday. In the U.S. the chance of good waves is at best, I actually have no idea.

The problem is that NJ waves are so quick and disorganized. In the photo above you can see the lines. Organized waves because of a long “fetch.” That is the distance the wind blows in a regular direction. Long fetch, organized waves. We rarely get a regular wind from the East. Weather travels west to East, or sometimes from the northwest, or south. Storms come from the south. Cold clear skies come from the north. I generalize here of course.

I’m still happier at home. The older I get, the more I want to be home. WTF.

Is it my energy level?

I’m trying eat really well here. Food is healthier. Or it’s easier to find healthy food and harder to find doughnuts. Or ice cream.

Our supermarkets are filled with crap food. Sugar, fat, and salt. And I get tempted.

I am trying harder. Trying to live longer. I need more time with my family! Landi, Jennie, and Marta.

I need to be as healthy as I can in order to have the energy and good attitude it takes to do stuff. Move. Not sit and watch tv or read. Move.

Here will be my fresh start.

Next week we go to Namibia to visit some family there. Dry sparsely populated country. Love it there. Big Dunes. And it’s safe. Not much crime. Crime is all over Africa. Poverty and crime.

5 days there and back for 5 days here. 2 with family and 3 just us.

I have a whole bunch of doctors to see. Ugh. 5 skin cancer procedures. Great. At least I love my doctors.

Tired. Tired of the clouds.

Later.

3/4 IN