This is the paddle board I own. An NSP Elements, 10′ 2″ long. Lots of volume. 

It’s great fun out on a lake. I can actually put a small beach chair on it and float around reading a book!

The paddling is great for my core strength. 

I should have left it at that. 

I rented one just like it and took it out for a surf at Muzenburg.  I’m pretty sure that if I lived here still, and had access to the ocean, I could get OK at this. Not good, but safe and OK. 

I don’t live here anymore. The ocean is a 2 hour drive for me at home and, as oceans are, unpredictable. In a few hours the conditions can change dramatically. Here, I check the surf report and go. In the water in my wetsuit in 45 minutes. 

I don’t have the energy and can’t justify the petrol. (gas) Besides, my body isn’t “surf fit.”  I’m not strong enough in the water. I hike. It’s way different. 

Also, it hurts too much. I turned under my 2nd toe when standing up. It happens often to me. This time, I stomped down on it when the toe was still bent under. 

This foot is numb still from my back injury and the surgery. It doesn’t hurt much, but you should see it!  Swollen and blue. 

I heal slowly theses days and get hurt more easily. I have to be more selective about my activity. Notice, I’m avoiding the word “old?” 

I should surrender. 

Not quite yet. 

Boom